The most sustainable fur is the one you don't make. But for the luxury houses still needing the look and feel, BioFluff is betting the best alternative isn't plastic, but plants.
Founded in 2022, the Paris-based startup has developed Savian, a material it bills as the world's first 100% plant-based fur [Forbes]. The company's wedge is straightforward: target high-fashion's ethical fur replacement problem first, where margins can absorb early-stage material costs and brand halo matters. Their proof point landed on a global stage, with a coat made from Savian unveiled in collaboration with Stella McCartney at the UN's COP28 climate conference in December 2023 [Pearls Magazine, 2023].
The chemistry of a new pile
BioFluff's materials, which also include plant-based shearling, fleece, and plush alternatives, are designed to be direct drop-ins for existing textile production. The process uses enzymatic treatments on plant fibers to create a pile that mimics fur, aiming for biodegradability and compatibility with standard manufacturing equipment [Perplexity Sonar Pro]. The environmental claim is the core of the pitch: the company states Savian has a 95% lower carbon footprint than animal fur and is 75% lower than plastic-based faux fur [Perplexity Sonar Pro]. For an industry under pressure to decarbonize, that's a compelling number, if it holds at scale.
The founding team brings together the necessary, if distinct, disciplines for the task.
| Founder/Role | Background |
|---|---|
| Martin Steubler (Co-founder, former CEO) | Biochemist with advanced degrees in biotech and bio-economy [LinkedIn - Martin Stübler]. |
| Steven Usdan (Co-founder) | Textile industry executive [LinkedIn]. |
| Roni Gamzon (Co-founder, CCO) | Fashion-tech entrepreneur [Forbes]. |
| Luke Henning (Interim CEO, appointed Oct 2025) | Former co-founder and chairman of textile recycling firm Circ [BoF, Oct 2025]. |
This blend of deep material science, textile supply chain know-how, and fashion commercialisation is a textbook recipe for a biomaterials venture. The October 2025 appointment of Luke Henning, with his experience in scaling Circ's textile recycling operations, signals a pivot towards the gritty challenges of production and industrialisation.
The luxury wedge and the scaling cliff
BioFluff's early strategy is classic category entry: anchor in luxury, where sustainability commands a premium. After the Stella McCartney showcase, the material appeared in a special edition bag for Danish fashion brand Ganni in early 2024 [Dezeen, Feb 2024]. The company is also a graduate of the La Maison des Startups LVMH accelerator, a relationship that provides not just mentorship but a direct line into one of the world's largest luxury groups.
The $2.5 million seed round, led by impact-focused firm Astanor Ventures with participation from SOSV and Joyance Partners, fuels this push [EU-Startups, Nov 2023]. The investor mix is telling: Astanor's portfolio is heavy on agricultural and food system transformation, suggesting a belief in BioFluff's plant-based sourcing as a systemic advantage over petroleum-derived alternatives.
Yet, the path from runway showcase to roll goods is steep. The public record shows design collaborations, but no disclosed bulk order volumes or recurring commercial revenue. The core risks for BioFluff are not about proof of concept, but proof of economics.
- Cost at scale. The enzymatic processes and specialized plant feedstocks required are almost certainly more expensive than extruding polyester. The unit economics only work if luxury brands pay a significant green premium, or if production costs fall dramatically with volume.
- Performance parity. Fashion is tactile. Savian must match the drape, weight, and durability of incumbent materials across millions of garment cycles, not just one showpiece coat.
- Supply chain build-out. Sourcing enough consistent, sustainable plant fiber and converting it through a reliable, scaled production process is a capital-intensive operational lift, far beyond lab development.
The back-of-the-envelope math is sobering. If the global faux fur market is roughly $2 billion annually, capturing just 1% would mean $20 million in revenue. To get there, BioFluff must move from making enough material for a few hundred bags to supplying enough for hundreds of thousands of garments, all while keeping its carbon and cost advantages intact. That's a manufacturing leap, not a marketing one.
The incumbent in the room
BioFluff's most direct competitor isn't a startup, but an established player. French company Ecopel is the world's largest producer of faux fur, making millions of meters of the material annually, primarily from recycled polyester. Ecopel has its own sustainability story and the immense advantages of scale, entrenched supplier relationships, and known performance. For BioFluff to win, Savian must convince brands that its plant-based, biodegradable profile is worth a higher price and a supply chain switch from a proven, high-volume incumbent. It's a bet on values driving value, and it's one the luxury sector, with its affinity for storytelling and innovation, is uniquely positioned to test.
Sources
- [Forbes] Roni GamZon | https://www.forbes.com/profile/roni-gamzon/
- [Pearls Magazine, 2023] Savian launch at COP28 | https://pearlsmagazine.com/2023/12/04/stella-mccartney-and-biofluff-unveil-worlds-first-plant-based-fur-at-cop28/
- [Perplexity Sonar Pro] BioFluff product and carbon claims | Source integrated from web-grounded brief.
- [LinkedIn - Martin Stübler] Martin Steubler profile | https://www.linkedin.com/in/martin-stübler/
- [LinkedIn] Steven Usdan profile | https://www.linkedin.com/in/stevenusdan/
- [BoF, Oct 2025] Luke Henning appointed interim CEO | https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/sustainability/biofluff-appoints-luke-henning-interim-ceo/
- [Dezeen, Feb 2024] Ganni bag collaboration | https://www.dezeen.com/2024/02/15/ganni-biofluff-savian-plant-based-fur-bag/
- [EU-Startups, Nov 2023] $2.5M Seed Round | https://www.eu-startups.com/2023/11/paris-based-biofluff-gets-e2-2-million-to-redefine-the-luxury-textiles-industry-with-plant-based-fabrics/